@clyde thanks, useful reminder

A quick history of MAME in nine minutes:

@testfly If you have a 'pre-configured' disk with games, you're probably running a 3rd party image of RetroPie, which are not supported here. As for your question, you could start here for some inspiration. It really depends on what you want to play on the cab.

And of course adafruit put 4gb pi's up not an hour after I posted this. So of course I jumped on it. Now, an hour after that, they are out of stock of 4gb, but the 2gb is in stock.
Oh well, 4gb is overkill, but it's better than scalping prices off elsewhere.

@dodonpachi said in Higher powered Pi 4 alternatives for Retropie:

@george-spiggott @barbudreadmon What are your thoughts on an Intel NUC5i7RYH, for my purposes? (IE, Mame, CV1000 and 3D fighters like Soul Calibur and Street Fighter EX, etc)

If that's in your budget it looks like it will be more than up to the task with an STR of almost 1900.

@capeman

Yeah.

The game is terribly mean but still a joy to play.

Expect to grind hard on each level if you ever want to get the proper ending.

All is working as it should now, thanks again!

I install yabasanshiro that is available now on the experimental package and this game working fine so far . Many thanks!

@adamguest1985

If you're good and comfortable with house wiring, I've found the best way to build a cabinet is to install a powerstrip internally then open it and extend the switch to a 20a 120v hard-mounted external switch, like the original cabinets had. In fact, you can actually use the original switches to be honest, they ran on 120v systems. I normally replace them just for reliability sake.

Once you do this, everything is left as "wake on power", or left switched "ON". Even the Pi can work this way, but will need a proper shutdown process to turn it off. Everything else in the cabinet will remain off when power is off, then immediately turn on when the main power strip is energized (Lights, LEDs, Audio, Monitor.. etc... just like an original cabinet did. When I build a cabinet, my goal is Old School.. I like it all on at once, and ready to play...all discrete and hidden so you can't tell it's a PC or modern electronics.

Again, not saying to do this, but I am very comfortable designing and working with power, so it's not an issue for me.

Best,

JamR

@dteam Thank you for the kind words, this means a lot to me. Initially I had plans on doing more with other systems too, but the way I did it was too much work for me and a lot has changed in my private life too. The plans are still there, just with little bit less of scope. As for this document, off course there are things I would have done differently now. But that will always be the case. And did anyone notice the starts at the last "Thank you for reading" page are clickable links to some websites?^^ So guess this makes them to Easter eggs.

Just for the fun and sake of discussion, what games did you miss on the list? Or what games does not belong to it in your own opinion? How many of you are on Raspberry Pi 3 or older?

Monster Castle?

@thorr69 I did say you could mount it vertically on the side of the table where it's not visible. But hey, you don't have to do it if you don't want to.

@daywane bet it was mind blowing?

Came across this page on google aaaaaand the link to your tool is dead. Just thought i should mention it.

@retropieuser555 Hear, hear!

@fruitybit That's the first I've see it, I'll check it out.

Thanks for letting me know.
John

@upjumptheboogie

I love controllers and I play with a lot of them. Heck, I just ordered two of them today just because I haven't tried them before. Unfortunately, I don't have alot of experience using the Nintendo online controllers with a raspberry pi box. While I cannot tell you specifically, I caution you when using fairly niche controllers that the user base may not have mocked up some drivers for.

You are generally safe when using simple plug and play types and also Xbox clones because those drivers have been well tested.

After using dozens upon dozens of controllers for retro gaming there are a few that I keep coming back to, but your milage may vary.

I tend to use iBuffalo controllers for NES and SNES. Unfortunately, those are absurdly expensive right now. I got several when they were $15 USD, but they are going for over $40 now.

For Playstation I usually use a Logitech F710 as I like the micro switches in the d-pad. It's kind of like a Sega style disk but with four clicky switches under it.

For Genesis/MD I will either use an iBuffalo or a Retrobit Dual-link six button controller. There are several really fancy looking Gensis/MD six button clones on Amazon, but for some reason a lot of them have trouble reading when two buttons are pressed at the same time. The Dual-links seem to not have this issue.

8bitdo is another premium option, but I personally dislike how they feel. The buttons tend to be pretty great, but the d-pads seem to have a weird springy sponge quality to them.

I've tested myself using multiple controllers in challenging sections of Contra. Oddly enough, the controller I did the best with was a standard Xbox One controller with that clicky d-pad. But the buttons on that one feel awful to mash.

Ultimately, finding a controller that feels right to you is the important part. I know a guy that can do a no death run of Ninja Gaiden NES with a wretched old Xbox 360 controller. Trying to use the d-pad on that thing raises my blood pressure. But to each their own, Good luck!

The port is working beautifully except that the ESC key is not mapped to the joypad.
Any ideas how to map it so that it makes it possible to exit the game without using a keyboard?

please note openjazz.cfg is binary so I'm unable to edit it and look into remapping.

Many thanks