I know this is an old thread but I'm just getting into RetroPie (and Raspberry Pi's in general!)

@LeatherOtter Out of curiosity, did this end up working the way you expected? If so, I'm thinking the Powerblock might be a very easy way to modify my just arrived Retrflag NESPi case to make the power and reset buttons functional as expected. The Power button would just shut it down, and the reset button (which just momentarily cuts power) would cause a restart.

@darky2003 so you didnt get a square plastic piece to go on the shaft? this looks like one of the ones that would use a square piece for pressing the switches.

I would be more likely to learn direct gpio wiring than buy another piece of hardware if I really wanted to get my pitendo running recalbox. I was only a little curious about recalbox. Overall I have become dissatisfied with emulation on the pi in general guess my expectations were set incorrectly. Oh well it was a fun project and I learned a lot. Eh at this point I just might pony up the dough for an Analogue Super NT and be done with it. /end rant Anyway might as well lock/delete the thread not much for anyone else to learn or discuss here and my question was answered several posts ago.

@caver01 I second this. On the BYOAC forums there's lot of advice to find regarding the build itself, but note that not everyone thinks very highly of Raspberry Pi's there, so questions regarding this is better asked in this excellent site :)

Hi,

It seems that using a different USB cable has solved the issue. I have successfully updated to 1.2.0.

Many thanks

I just realized that like 5 minutes ago, just tested it and it works!
Stupid of me, but thanks for the reply!

@derekboy2000 You need to be root in order to be able to delete it. If you say you're able to edit it, just replace the line you referenced with

exit 0

and the script should exit without trying anything else.

@la From what I understand from your post, the device is a remote control. Can it also act work like a gamepad controller ? Because this is what RetroPie recognizes and configures to navigate the Emulationstation menus.

Ok, thanks for the information. The buttons you guys suggested look better than I had envisioned. I didn't have any specific dimensions but I was more looking for something round so I can drill through the side plate vs. something square which I don't have equipment to do properly. :)

@petrockblog said in GamepadBlock and 6-button genesis/megadrive controllers:

Yes - the 6 button controller for Genesis can be used with the GamepadBlock. You can switch to 6 button mode with the button combination "A+B+C+Start+Up".

Cheers! :)

It is important to note that the switch and the optional status LED need to be connected to the 2x2 pins header in any case. The signal break outs S1 and S2 are not meant for the switch and the LED, but rather for the communication between the PowerBlock and The RPi. Here is a summary for the connection between the break outs and the RPi:

S1: pin 12 S2: pin 11 5V OUT +: pin 2 or pin 4 5V OUT -: pin 6 or pin 9

One idea to try out could be to try and disconnect the fan. If the behaviour is different and, in the best case, everything is working properly, then the fan might draw too much current.

Sounds like you've got everything set up fine in EmulationStation, but not in retroArch.

Make sure you're using "lr-" versions of an emulator, then try going into the retroArch menu (Select+X). You should be able to configure your buttons in there.

The GamepadBlock provides a hardware interface for original Amiga, C64 and other home computer controllers. It would be a wired solution, though.

@suleske I found several inexpensive and simple circuits I could build. This little board has some added features (e.g. setting the key press switch delay), so I bought it: https://www.ebay.com/itm/262199569276

The ControlBlock also finds on the model b. However, one difference between B and B+ is that B needs a bit more power than B+. Depending on your power supply this might lead to instabilities with the power switching component on the ControlBlock, because the MOSFET on it adds a small voltage drop.

Hope that helps?

I have just released a post about the virtual COM port of the GamepadBlock. I hope that answers your questions! You can find it at https://blog.petrockblock.com/2017/11/11/using-virtual-com-port-gamepadblock/

The same official micro-USB adapter that works in the jack, just out through an extender so that it can be powered in a custom case. The placement of the jack isn't ideal, I'm just moving it out.