very clean

nice work

@chip

As long as you stick to systems that use a directional pad and two buttons or less, you shouldn't have any problems whatsoever. Fortunately you have a pretty big variety there with nes, sms, pcengine, gameboy/color, gamegear, ngpc and just about every atari option, as well as a pretty big selection of arcade titles.

yeah, it's a very bad habit :(

@ZEL-SK8 It totally is possible! But please look it up first. A quick google search can solve most of your problems. I beleive it is call retrogame.

alright, thank you very much. I am now able to change the resolution of my waveshare.
but the aspect ratio doesn't change at all. eve though I specify the aspect ratio in the hdmi_cvt-argument

today it seems that this core supports the borders of the super game boy.
has anyone tried it? would it be possible to add it?

unfortunately mgba supports borders but not palettes, while gambatte supports palettes but not borders :(

@itsnitro I'd like to say it is ready for sale, but in reality I think it still needs some work, and Im not convinced that the people who mod these screens to work with 5v know if it works well or not, I am doing some testing to see if the screen will last or degrade.

I may well post revision 2 for sale somewhere.

I tested battery life out last night and it was easily 2 hours of play time. If I had a battery indicator in it and auto shut down then I would consider it a saleable product, right now its a bit niche.

well i just tried my wifi card on all three usb ports, and it can see the network without issues, so all three usb ports must be functioning.
I tried a confirmed working keyboard, and two confirmed working gamepads and they arent detected, not in a fresh instal or in the one with the GPIO keyboard.

very strange. I will open a new thread on this subject with a better title in the hope of getting some help.

Today I am very happy because I solved this issue. I just had to remove the case, plug in a new image, plug in the HDMI,and get the ip so I can configure it on my computer. Thank you all so much for helping me out.

@momaw27 i know this is quite old, but I decided to make a Gameboy color border of my own, because the green one is too small, credit goes to @DieKatz for the Gameboy Pocket border, along with @momaw27 for the Gameboy Color Logo. gbc-gcase-grid-resized.png

ok, thanks

@mediamogul I even owned the original Gameboy and Gameboy color and I totally forgot about the colourisation on original GB games on the GBC . Amazing that the emulation takes that into account.

Excellent - thanks for the link.

@CaelThunderwing Did you find any good 1:1 settings from a GB game to GBC? I haven't, even in the RetroArch config options. Eg. the color from Pokemon Blue does not match what it would be if I put it into an actual GBC (where Charmander would be red and Bulbasaur be green). I tried changing the file format to GBC with no avail.

Wow, impressive build!! Thanks for the explanation about the buttons, great work!
Would be interested to see the backside of the front plate where the button go and how you fastened the buttons?

Agin, very impressive!

@obsidianspider

I'm from the UK. And It's cost me somewhere in the region of about £40-£50 due to the scarcisty of Powerboost 1000 over here.

My soldering Iron was temp regulated. It served me well.

Went out and got a new soldering iron and ordered a new powerboost and Pi Zero.

I'm still confident I can break them out.

Found a nice little walkthrough

end a piece of #20 to #24 copper wire so it just fits around the LED or resistor, then heat that with the tip of your soldering iron.

The wire will carry heat to the pads on both ends of the component, melting both at the same time. Then you can slide the component off the pads. It's a lot faster and easier than trying to lever a component off with only one side free.

Clean any excess solder off the pads with solder wick, then re-tin before adding the jumper.

30 gauge wire works well for the jumpers. It can carry more than enough current for an LED, and is flexible enough that you won't risk pulling the pad off the PCB.

Bend about 1mm of the wire back on itself and press the wires together with pliers/tweezers to make a tight U, dip it in flux, then melt a bead of solder into the U. The capillary action between the wires will hold more solder than a straight run of wire, and the paired wires will act like a small pad. Place the tinned U on the pad, heat it with your iron, and you should get a good joint.

I've got the broken powerboost I'm gonna practice on.

Let's hope

@ProxyCell perhaps they called it coleco for brevity's sake.

Anyways it's unlikely that name will be changed as its been in the core of mess for a very long time and would break things.

I named it coleco in the systems here to maintain parity with mess as advmess also uses that system name. You can still theme it by colecovision in ES even if the system is called coleco in the backend.

Related see all systems here:

http://www.progettoemma.net/mess/sysset.php